Customer Service - FAQ
- Culinary silicone molds for soap?
- How many liters is one set Silicone Culinary?
- What temperatures can Silicone withstand?
- My mold made of Silicone Culinary is sticky.
- Can I bake cakes in silicone culinary?
- Can I make chocolate molds from silicone culinary?
- After casting, there are air bubbles in my mold, why?
- Writing on silicon?
- Bonding silicone to my model of clay?
- Cutting silicone?
- What silicone can I cut in?
- Why does my silicones not cure?
- Silicone casting VS Knead Silicone.
- What is the difference between addition and condensation silicone?
- How do I get the fraying away at my mold?
- How do I color in silicone and silicone paints?
- Is a release agent necessary?
How do I ...
- How do I make a copy of an old wooden frame?
- How to make a silicone bracelet?
- How do I make a copy of a wooden hand?
- How do I make a copy of an existing statue?
- How to make molds for decorative stones and jewels (fun jewelry)?
- How to make molds for miniatures?
- How to make molds for soap?
- How to make molds for candles?
- How to make molds for cement and concrete?
The 3-D gel / alginate is the right material for this purpose. Alginate is made of dried seaweed and is harmless to humans and animals. Keep in mind that the mold is disposable. the manual for afvormen a hand is basically the same as for afvormen a foot or any other body part. For a detailed guide to using, please refer to our documentation. A (baby) hand or foot mould by alginate.
Take a container where the foot fits into the correct position.
Record (to save material) no container that is much too broad.
1 package 3-D gel (500g) do +/- 2 to 2.5 ltr. gel.
Regarding the ontmallen of a foot:
-Do The gel in a container with the appropriate amount of water.
-Even Mix with a mixer or whisk.
-The Feet are moving in and light with toes and feet so that any air bubbles to escape.
-then hold the foot and wait 5 minutes until the gel is hard.
-now the foot ontmallen to move very carefully with the toes and foot. Make sure there is slowly coming along the edges air into the mold so that the vacuum is released. Now, by slowly to extract the foot (really take some time), it is not necessary to cut open the mold.
the mold-let sit in the same container and pour it with the desired product. The bucket now serves as a supporting mold.
-If the molding material has cured can the alginate off are "plucked".
Culinary The silicone is very suitable for making soap molds. You can either take the cheaper condensation silicone C 20 A + B. They are also excellent for casting or spatula soap molds.
The flexibility of both silicone is high and therefore suitable for detailed soap molds.
The biggest difference between the two type of silicone can be found in the mixing ratio:
- Silicon Culinary is 1 A + 1 Part B.
- Silicon C 20 is 100 parts A + B 2 parts
Price-wise, you can make the best use of condensation silicone "Silicone C 20 A + B" or the addition silicones "Silicone A Pink and Yellow". The condensation silicone give in the beginning off a slight odor. This disappears after some time. One can also make these silicone 2 hours in the oven at 100 degrees and then (to cool !!) wash in soapy water and dry. In this way also the smell away.
Work for afvormen a face always with 2 people. One person is lying in front of the cast and the other mixes the material and casting it in the box.
-take a box about the size of the face (eg shoe box).
-hierin cut a hole slightly larger than the face.
-along the edges paste tape (eg. paper masking tape / masking tape) extending approximately one cm over the edge.
-If You're sticking your face in the hole makes the tape the holes and crevices close nicely.
-stop your nostrils clots toilet paper or something so that there is no material in the nose.
-take a tube so you can breathe easy. Practice this in advance! A straw veeeeel is too thin, a yellow PVC tube (arrows tube) is usually sufficient.
-go now located and press the box tightly to the face so that fits well around everything.
-meng the right amount of alginate with (warm) water by making use of a mixer.
-Pour the box until the desired amount of vol.
Wait 5 minutes (until the gel is hard) with ontmallen.
-Get the box gently (with tube and all) on the face.
-Pour the desired product in the mold within 4-5 hours.
Remember that you create enough alginate in one time, and the mixture was found to be too little (for example still protruding nose and is not covered) you can create a new mixture and pour over it, it does not adhere!
On the required amount of 3d-gel can be said anything. The amount depends on the size of the box being used. Always advance a good calculation. Often it is 2 packs alginate of 2 x 500 grams) enough (3-4 liter of total product).
A set Silicone Culinary weighs 1 kg. The density of this silicone is 1.05 kg / l. That is, 1 kg of silicon is equal to 950 ml.
All silicone in our shop can least withstand temperatures between -20 ° C and 240 ° C. The silicone C HT 40 even up to temperatures of 380oC (briefly). The culinary Silicones can easily withstand temperatures from -40oC to + 280oC for a very long time (hours to days) .. As a result, the silicone suitable both for the freezer as well as for the oven.
When worked correctly, there would be no or substantially no air bubbles occur. A number of tips through which the amount of air bubbles will be minimal or (in most cases) total will not appear.
1. It may be that the silicone to cure too quickly by the addition of too much B-component (more than 2%). The bubbles therefore not given enough time to escape. The best solution for condensation silicone would do to add 1.5% B component. The ontmaltijd is thus prolongs making bubbles longer have time to disappear. Remember to count the weights fairly precisely. With a syringe you can measure extremely accurate charts. (1 ml in this case is 1 gram). Addition silicone can slow down the components to make something colder before putting it on. Temperature greatly influenced namely the curing of silicone addite.
2. It may also be that is placed in storage during the mixing too much air. Because there are "beating" is mixed. Try to hit as little as possible but stir the components together.
3. Pour of a reasonable height (e.g. 50 cm) and with a thin jet. During the fall will also be the last air bubbles shatter.
4. As you zekler want to be a mold without bubbles, you can first pour a thin layer of silicone on the models and then with a brush to run after the model. When you are finished with brushes, and there are no air bubbles, you can pour the rest of the mold.
Finally I would like to say that the silicone always be tested before being packed and shipped. None of our test may contain air bubbles. Of course we make testing not use vacuum or vibrators.
If the mold (made of silicone Culinary) after curing sticky and soft to the touch, there are a number of possible causes.
1. The mixing ratio of 1: 1 is not or not sufficiently complied with. A too large difference in the mixing ratio or do not result in partial curing. This makes for a less tacky and soft, and strong end result.
2. The mother model, the penetration pocket or the release agent contains one of the materials which adversely affected the curing process of this silicone.
Process the silicone preferably at room temperature.
To ensure proper curing, we always recommend to set up a test with the materials used. If the silicone in the test are not hindered by the materials of this will not be the case in the final cast.
For more information see also the FAQ about curing (Addition) Silicone below. Why not cure my silicone?
This is a familiar problem in siliconenmallen.Met nothing you can write to silicone. However, there is a method that allows you to characterize a mold:
Write, before you pour the silicone, with a permanent marker and mirror writing the name or number of the model in the casting container at the place where the text should be placed. After ontmallen you will see that the text in the positive silicone state. The text is indelible and can just bring in the dishwasher. This method works primarily at the Silicones A and B (Poly condensation silicone) and the silicone high temperature. In Silicon Culinary (poly addition) this method works so well.
To make virtually any object is a mold. The form and detail of the model to determine the difficulty of the mold. For example, a mold of, for example, a plane tile very simple compared with a mold of a picture that Michael Angelo ever has cut down from a stone. The guides on our site to get all a lot of information about how to make a mold, both single and multi-part. For casting a mold you need silicone (silicone silicone A + B). For casting an image you can choose from several casting masses. So you can choose from porcelain plaster, Acristal Prima, casting wax or polyurethane casting system. See documentation for the different properties.
The "Silicone Culinary" from our online store providing excellent for casting a cakemal. Under the heading applications, you will find an example of a rubber duck cake. There are a number of things (in the case of a cake) that you must take into account: - The silicone will in certain places are pretty thick / solid. In these places will take longer to heat until the dough has penetrated. For this reason, the cake will be somewhat longer have to stand in the oven.
-On The place where the silicone is less thick and less massive, the heat will quickly reach the dough. In these places, the dough will be therefore cook more quickly than at other places. (See example the dark places rubber duck are the places where the silicone were thin).
In places where the silicone is thin, the mold can also give a bit when the cake starts to rise / off.
Models with a lot of detail or small protrusions at ontmallen will be able to break the cake.
Cutting silicone is easily if you follow a number of rules:
-use always sharp (Stanley) knife.
-use preferably a long knife, ie a long cutting edge.
-Cut sawing not just pull the knife first cut to the desired depth.
-Is It still needed a second or cut multiple times, follow the existing section at the deepest point and again not sawing.
-It's Always easy to get a second person to unfold the cut, that way you can cut easier and the previous cut is easier to follow.
-Provides Can ensure (if possible) that you will always cut in the shape of a saw tooth. This gives you a mold that closes later on together nicely and gives less chance of a seam.
-Probeert Can, if the cut away in the mold and not all the way, to end around this cut. This prevents the cut tear too easily further.
The answer to this question depends on what you use silicone. Namely addition silicones (All Silicones A) and condensation silicone (All Silicon C)
Regarding Condensation silicones are often four possibilities:
-There Is no harder at. You forgot B component by mixing the A component before you cast the silicone. In this case, the silicone will not harden.
-You Have added less than the recommended amount. The ratio of A to B is not accurately weighed and result in less than the recommended% B component. In this case, the silicone will be cured but it will take longer. (In the worst case even 2 to 3 days longer). Note the use of an outdated faster returns add too little louder same effect.
- You do not accidentally use the correct harder. In your enthusiasm, haste, inattention have inadvertently not added to the B component, but another liquid that seemed very much.
- There is too little moisture in the air or in the silicone. Condensation silicones contain moisture. When last unclosed stores this silicone evaporates the water in it so that the silicone will cure subsequently less good. Also, the moisture from the air is used during curing. When the humidity is below 40% and which has a major influence on the curing times.
Although the causes very obvious to even the most experienced user to make the above mistakes.
A real solution if you have already poured with condensation silicone is not really there. You can at best try to increase the humidity and a lot of patience (sometimes days). Once you've added will unfortunately never harden the product no B component.
Concerning Addition silicone there are stricter rules on mixing than with condensation silicone:
- Addition silicones have A and B components that are tailored exactly to each other. Therefore only use A and B components of associated batch numbers. Keep the proportions exactly.
- The platinum in the katalyst is very sensitive to chemical contamination of, among other things: fosfer, sulfur (also sulfur-containing latex gloves), tin salts (this can be found in the condensation silicone), nitrogen, arsenic, PVC stabilizers, epoxy catalysts. When the katalyst with one of these substances in contact therewith than the platinum will start to react and therefore do not react sufficiently with the silicone itself. These substances will include for sulfur-cured rubber and latex, silicone condensation, rotten food and various adhesives.
- The temperature is too low. Addition silicones need a certain temperature in order to harden. Usually, a temperature above 18 ° C is sufficient.
Because of this sensitivity of addition silicone, we recommend to put on a small trial with the materials you will use. Thus, one can easily determine if the end result it hardens.
A solution to fail or cured silicone aditie is not real. You can only try to free the silicone of the material making it not curing, and then to place the silicone in the oven at 100 degrees for several hours.
A model made from untreated / unpainted clay (dried or baked) will indeed cause problems when unloading. For unloading of silicone clay, you can use a spray solution but there are simple methods with home garden and kitchen materials: Provide the model with a petroleum jelly, beeswax furniture polish or shoe polish (preferably colorless). The pores of the clay may be, as it were sealed, and a release is ensured. To the wax to make as thin as possible, you can dilute the wax with turpentine and rub the mixture with a brush or cloth. After the complete model is equipped with the mixture of turpentine will evaporate and an extremely thin layer was left behind.
Liquid silicone take the smallest detail of the model over, chinks and undercuts are no problem. Moldable silicones often have trouble with detail or deeper parts.
Coloring silicone casting goes easily through the addition of a dye paste. Coloring moldable silicone happens on algeen factory.
Mixing the malleable silicone comes easily. A mixing bowl and spatula are needed. Mixing silicone molding requires a mixing bowl, spatula and a little more effort.
For processing malleable silicone you do not use trays, etc. to pour in. The casting silicone preparation required places in the form of penetration pocket and possibly plugging cracks through which the silicone can flow away.
Use after curing
A cast model always has a straight top edge (level) and is therefore directly gebruiksklaar.Kneedbare silicones are not straight, and need to be leveled and fixed before they can be used (in the case of casting in for example chocolate).
Larger models of molding silicone can be placed on a baking tray and are ready for use. Larger models should be fitted with malleable silicone with a support cap or something to level and are in their original form.
Liquid silicone running in all cracks and holes and self-venting. Moldable silicone will often enclose air.
Because the silicone casting a longer processing time (40 minutes) is rushing unnecessary. Knead Silicones have a shorter processing time (10 minutes).
Ductile silicones are to apply in the desired thickness on the model where the at molding silicone is necessary to fill the whole container.
Fragile mother models
Extremely fragile models are easy to create with casting silicone. Knead Silicone benodigen often little more force / pressure to be applied.
A complex model (eg, a three-masted boat) one can simply casting. Processing mouldable silicone is difficult or impossible.
Simple models (think of medailes, medals, buttons, coins, etc ..) are very easy and quick to make off with moldable silicone. Silicone casting in this case possible maarr very cumbersome.
Ontmallen cast silicon (both from the master model and the copy) is easily the flexibility. Moldable silicones are often slightly stiffer and have less elongation.
Liquid silicone is often lower in price than the kneading silicone.
Measuring the ratio is in the malleable silicone easy to do on the eye. The casting silicon require a weegschaaltje or measuring cup. And listens reasonably precise
The casting silicones have with their range of -40 to + 280 a slightly higher resistance than the malleable silicon (up to +250).
For this application, you use putty like Plastiline or modeling wax. Both masses are reusable. The biggest difference (beyond which the first is a wax and the other synthetic clay) is the hardness. Plasticine is however relatively soft and good tuck / ductile there is therefore difficult to make detail by way of example, a knife or something the modeling wax is reasonable to very hard. The wax in an oven, put under a lamp or above a heater (not directly on it) for extended periods of time makes the wax softer and more manageable. If the light was then afkoeld is this hard again and nice to provide detail eg using a knife.
Finally we want to mention that plasticine beautiful form off (mold) with all types of silicone. However, the addition silicone can cure what difficult. This can be remedied by removing the plastiline after curing, and curing the silicon further (possibly 100 degrees in the oven).
For molding such a mold, you can use the silicone A with the silicone B. However, there are two important points which one should keep in mind: 1- Adhesion, the silicone will adhere possible if the list is porous or unpainted . Adverse 2, the B component can affect the old list. To be sure, one can create a small amount of silicone and testing (at a place where it is not visible). If the silicone does not adhere here and have compromised nothing can be poured the mold / spatula. One can also search solution into the silicone A Pink or Yellow or Green. Although these silicones are slightly more pricey the risk of attack will be significantly less. The probability of adhesion is hardly or not smaller. Finally, one can opt for the natural product alginate (3D gel) from the online store. However, this is a single-use, and (in that it is, of course, and on the basis of water) limited shelf-life (2-3 hours).
Keep in mind that all silicone during curing a little grease can leave. This means that there may be spots in your wooden frame which can not be removed. Therefore, always first turn to test it on a small test on a piece of the list that is not important.
You can certainly bonbons cast in silicone culinary. The model shapes you can make good Fimo clay, plasticine or other materials. Use white plasticine or white polymer clay (so that the silicone 100% sure not discolor). The silicone mold you do so later take over all the details. A release agent between Plasticine or Fimo clay for release from the silicone culinary is not necessary. Remember when chocolate chocolates that will not shine if the prototype does not shine! This is often required by professional chocolatiers as the chocolate itself then looks tastier. If it's a "must" is that the chocolates shine there are two possibilities: 1: The master model must shine like the chocolate should shine later. 2: the dull chocolate may be sprayed with (edible) alcohol. This partly solves the outer layer and then evaporates. This allows the chocolate will shine.
Remember that chocolate is an aggressive material. This will be the silicone sheen culinary corrode over time. The silicone mold will still work fine, but the chocolates are not very shiny. Soon we will offer a silicone which is more resistant chocolate.
Mother Model: The master model can make one out of different materials. Please be always aware that the result is determined by the master model. The finer / more beautiful the master model finer / nicer end model. When using synthetic clay, plasticine or polymer clay is difficult to detail and sharp cuts (because these malleable masses are very soft). We recommend for this reason like hard modeling wax (from the shop).
Prodction: The mold, in which the bracelet silicone is poured in, it makes use of synthetic resin a result, adhesion of the molding to the mold is not possible, and thus an unnecessary release agent. We recommend this template using the polyurethane casting compound from the webshop.
Bracelet: The bracelet is (probably) worn next to the skin. For this reason we recommend using addition silicones such as "Silicone A Pink, Yellow or Green" or "Silicones A Translucent" or even better "Silicone Culinary". Addition silicones are skin friendly than condensation silicones (like Silicone C 20) and Silicone Culinary its food and skin safe. Optionally, you can colorize it with the color pastes from the shop. Does hereby note that the silicones are standard white colors which are a little pastel-like.
We recommend two ways to make the mold:
1) Alginate: very easy processing, the mold in 5 minutes use, the alginate is flexible and compare very thick custard pudding (it tears right then it falls during ontmallen the original pops back to the place after ontmallen) . The disadvantage is that the mold to be used only one time, and must be (going to lose the mold water and thus model after 12 hours used within 12 hours after forming. This materiala can not be used well with undercuts. Lubricate the wooden model (if unpainted) with vaseline ointment, shoe polish (colorless), beeswax URL
2) Silicone: 12 hours ontmaltijd, reasonably flexible (more flexible, to make by the addition of silicone oil, see shop), very strong and very often to use mogelijkhijd to cut in order to facilitate ontmallen also at odnersnijdingen. In the case of casting a wooden model, it is important to pretreat the wood. Paint the wood or coat it with; Vaseline ointment, shoe polish (colorless), beeswax URL
The best way to make a mold without fraying is by attaching the master model to the substrate and iron every crevice very accurate close under the model with plasticine so that no silicone can run the model. Here comes a lot of time in it but the result is at once very pofessioneel and finishing / cutting is often much less or even no longer necessary. However, it is sometimes not possible to reach all the cracks and nice to lubricate close. In that case, it is still necessary to cut away the ravelling / membranes. -use always a sharp utility knife. -Keep With one hand and pull the film gently with it, cut with the other hand and follow the form. -Pull Never too hard to the web, thereby stretching the mold and will appear in many cases to the release you've cut too far. -possibly You go under the fleece with a finger, with the sharp blade push light at the top, now pull on the fleece, the fleece along the blade afsheuren. This technique may take some practice benodigen :) Note course good that you do not cut in both cases.
For unloading silicones, on different materials, you can make use of a release spray but there are simple methods with home garden and kitchen materials: Provide the model of a layer of petroleum jelly, beeswax furniture polish or shoe polish (preferably colorless). The pores of the porous materials are as it were sealed, and a release is ensured. In order to bring the wax layer as thin as possible (or petroleum jelly etc ...) to can dilute the wax with turpentine and rub the mixture with a brush or cloth. After the complete model is equipped with the mixture of turpentine will evaporate and an extremely thin layer was left behind. Incidentally, it is in many cases not necessary to use a release agent. Put in advance a simple small test on, for example, at the bottom of the model. Materials almost always a release agent benodigen are: Dried / fried / untreated clay, cardboard, untreated wood, fabric, paper and other dry / porous materials.
Cutting into a silicon mold prrobeert one to be avoided in general, because the probability that the silicon at this place by tearing is increased. However, in some cases, the incision is a simple solution for creating a better solution of a complex model. If you want to cut into the mold (and no food in the mold is processed), you can make the best use of the silicone C 20 A silicone C 20 B from the shop. These silicone, compared to other silicone, superior tear strength. It is convenient to the areas where you are going to cut back, to cast slightly thicker / spatula than those normally used. In this way provides you with the silicones somewhat more strength. In addition, the (if possible) is recommended to create a zigzag cut to. In this way, the jig flips in each case closed in the right way. Alternatively, you can place a rubber band around the mold (not too tight because then the mold deformed).
To do this, simply use the Silicone C 20 A and B component. Alternatively, you can use the silicone Thixo C when the candles are very large and you do not want to pour the whole model in a penetration pocket. See instructions for making a mold or spatelmal our tab documentation. As an alternative to silicone condensation to shrink somewhat over years and who started a little odor issue, you can also use Addition silicones such as "Silicone A Pink, Yellow, Green or Transparent."
To do this, simply use the Silicone C 20 A and B component. See instructions for making a mold or spatelmal our tab documentation. Note: for very aggressive ingredients or highly alkaline soaps you may want to use Addition silicones such as "Silicone A Pink, Yellow, Green or Transparent."
This depends on what kind of thumbnails you want. Pewter miniatures, you can make the best by a mold of Silicon C HT 40. This silicone can withstand temperatures for tin to (powders you use the template or first with talcum powder). Molds for miniatures of polyurethane casting system D80, Acrylic One, wax or plaster you may want to casting silicone C 20. For other aggressive or sensitive materials like PU crystal clear you should use Addition silicones such as "Silicone A Pink, Yellow, Green or Transparent. "
Edible miniatures course you can only pour into the Silicone Plastique culinary or culinary.
To do this, simply use the Silicone C 20 A and B component. See instructions for making a mold or spatelmal our tab documentatie.Deze silicones are ideal for cement and concrete and are also another highly tear resistant. Even when these silicone have to crack, they will not tear right. The crack will zigzag and thereby cause or even stop in time less damage. In addition to repair this silicone easy by introducing new silicone C 20. For very large shapes are easy to make this silicone spatula with the aid of thixo C ".
Ornamental Stones / jewelry makes you different materials ranging from polymer clay in resins as polyurethane, epoxy or polyester. Depending on the aggressiveness of the material used and the difficulty of the original, you can choose different silicone to make the mold. Condensation silicones such as silicone C 20 or addition silicones such as "Silicone A Pink, Yellow, Green or Transparent" ..
Condensation silicone are less demanding during curing and cheaper. Unfortunately, they can also be less well to epoxies and other resins, especially if the shape is very voluminous and developed a lot of heat. Addition silicones are more resistant to aggressive resins and are dimensionally stable. Unfortunately, they are also often more expensive and may be susceptible to contamination prior to and during curing. Contamination of addition curing silicone may reduce or even completely counteract.
The chemical difference between condensation crosslinking and addition crosslinking silicone is in the manner in which polymerization takes place. In other words. Condensation silicone form long chains in a process in which condenses a part of the material (separates). This separation is the reason for it that the total volume of the silicone and the silicone decreases thus have more crimp than addition silicone. Addition silicones are not substances secreted out during the formation of long chains and are thus krimprvrijer. Condensation silicones are tin salts as needed harder. Condensation silicone can this (excess) salts slowly sweat. Tin salts are harmful to the health and therefore are molds of condensation silicones are not suitable to use as voedselmal. Addition silicones work with platinum salts. Addition silicone sweating any product (including because one must handle reasonably precise mixing ratios).
Condensation silicone left after the A and B components are mixed always react and form chains. This silicone remain so always sweat material. As a result, this silicone over the years, will shrink more and more. These silicone will always be brittle / friable. The advantage of the continuous polymerization is that these silicone also attach to novel condensation silicone when they are installed on an old silicone cast. Hence, especially in a two-part mold of condensation silicone there is a good separation between the two layers during the pour of the second part, otherwise, will adhere to the silicone.
Addition silicone stop at one point responding / polymerization. Often they stop really early. Hence it recommends in addition to silicone "post Curing" (a long time in an oven at 80-100oC) this. In this way, one can force a further polymerization, so that there is no "unreacted" material can escape from the silicone.
Condensation silicone need moisture to cure. This moisture they get out of the silicone itself and the environment / air. Therefore, this silicone cure faster when the humidity is high. This is also the reason why the condensation silicone must close properly after use because otherwise the moisture evaporates out. Addition silicones are heat required for curing. For all the silicone addition is that this faster curing at higher temperature. Many addition cure silicone badly or not at low temperatures (already noticeable at temperatures below 18oC). Sometimes addition silicone little cold using to extend the processing time.
Condensation silicones are Albeit less resistant to chemicals and resins or addition cure silicone NA, but before and during curing this silicone can actually better against pollution. Addition silicone curing often fail or more from where they are contaminated by include: tin salts such as condensation silicone (use never a condensation silicone mold for addition silicones), various adhesives, phosphorus, Arsenecum, Nitrogen, one component silicone and sulfur (ie several sulfur-containing latex gloves). Adverse security or can you choose silicone against other materials, we encourage you to always set up a small test (on part of the original version), where it can not hurt.
Mixing ratios are by condensation silicone less important. If you add too much catalyst will cure faster and have a shorter processing time. A too large excess, however, causes negative effects, such as a less strong silicones. Too little catalyst let the silicone harden just very slowly.
Addition silicone must be very precise mixing a deviation up or down causes not cure the silicone. At best is yet to overcome this by post Curing in the oven at 100oC but mostly the result beyond repair. The silicones are sticky and soft.
Condensation silicone working with tin salts and are therefore known as Silicon Tinverhardende. Addition silicones work with platinum salts and are therefore known as platinum silicone.
Silicones are hard to paint. Only by damaging the skin and the spraying of colored silicone can find good location (for example solved by colored silicone in spraying thinner on the silicone). It is also often used makeup mixed with silicone sealant.
Silicones are good coloring. For this, one can use silicon dye or semi gloss oil-based paint. Note: we recommend that you always test first coloring outside the shop because the resolving power can vary in the silicone. Also, products in the paint curing silicone inhibit or even stop completely. Oil based paint makes the hardness of silicone moreover considerably bags!
Finally, you should be aware that silicone which naturally white are giving a paler colored results (pastel-like) than transparent silicone.
The hardness (the ease with which you can push in silicone) is determined by the value of the Shore silicone.
Also, it is true that tough silicone are less flexible. Most silicone molds have a Shore A value, but sometimes use is made of very soft silicone running outside the Shore A range. These are then called Shore 0 and Shore 00.
The hardest Shore D scale is (often used for PU), then C, then B and then A. After A is still 0 and 00. Within a scale runs, the value of 0 to 100, with 0 being the softest value is 100 and the hardest within that scale.
Obviously there is an overlap between the scales.
50 Shore D for hard flexible PU and feels like the famous Smurfs dolls
Shore A 80 Shore D feels like hard rigid plastic
Below is a table with all relevant Shore scales and values.
Roles to be with paper
Solid tires truck